Tunisia
Tunisia is one of the most beautiful and underrated countries of Africa. When one speaks of North Africa, the pyramids of Egypt or Sahara dessert of Morocco come to mind and sadly Tunisia is often overlooked.
It is home to the ancient Phoenician city of Carthage, the Roman Amphitheater at El Jem, the historic Islamic institution at Al-Zaytuna Mosque, and the worlds largest collection of Roman Mosaics at the National Bardo Museum. Filled with history, culture and stunning landscapes it’s my favorite country of North Africa.
From left to right: Al-Zaytuna Mosque, Rooftop view of the Medina in Tunis
I moved to Tunisia in August, 2013 after accepting a job at the American Corner, a cultural center and library located in Tunis. Expecting a chaos similar to Cairo, I was pleasantly surprised to find Tunis a comfortable and manageable city. I could walk most places, the taxi and minibus systems were easy enough to figure out. Additionally I could get around by speaking mostly in French. The people are friendly, the culture is vibrant and the beach is only a short drive away. I loved it.
Finding A Puppy
Around 11 months into my stay is when I found Milo. What do you do with a puppy in a foreign city? The timing couldn’t have been better, I had two weeks left of work and then just under two months of free time before I was scheduled to fly back to the US. It also happened to be Ramadan so my working hours were cut in half. This allowed for me to bring Milo to work since I could walk to the cultural center from home.
From left to right: Leaving the American Corner with my friend Farah, napping at work and at our home in Tunis.
Tunisia is not the most dog friendly country in the world. In Islam, dogs are considered impure or unclean. This combined with the feral dog problem in Tunis and high risk of rabies makes Tunisians very wary and afraid of dogs. I used to have to ask friends to drive us places as no taxi would allow him in the car, even if I offered to pay extra.
My landlord was displeased, but allowed me to keep him in the garden. He initially didn’t want him in the house but eventually came to love him. Aside from a small tree lined path separating the highway from residential homes, there were no nice places to take Milo to run around. This helped me located place in Tunisia that were dog friendly.
From left to right: Running on the path next to the highway, in front of our home and making a new friend.
Beaches
Beaches in Tunisia are some of the most beautiful I have ever seen. I say this having traveled to many tropical and island destinations. The beaches in Tunis can get quite crowded, but if you venture outside the city you can find your own personal oasis. Beaches also contribute to making Tunisia dog friendly.
Beach at La Marsa in Tunis
Rafraf Plage
About an hour north of Tunis, on the way to the port city of Bizerte is Rafraf Plage. Easily recognizable by the rock island visible in the distance, it’s a relaxing spot with soft sand and clear blue water. A fun day away, it’s advisable to bring your own picnic. This you can enjoy on the beach or in the shaded tree covered entrance. We would rent a car and go for the day. While I previously mentioned that Tunisia is not the most dog friendly, that notion seemed to dissolve at the beach. People were always very friendly with Milo and he would often go and sit with other families and nap in the sand.
Playing at the beach with my friend Farah.
Because he was a puppy, children would want to say hello and play with him. That being said, it’s always important to be respectful of other cultures. I would never let him greet a family without them asking first. Rafraf Plage can get busy during certain times of the year, so I would always advise to keep your dog leashed until you can assess your surroundings.
Beaches of Sousse
Sousse is another favored seaside city located 2 hours south of Tunis. Known for it’s beaches and nightlife, it’s a very popular tourist destination. If you venture just outside of Sousse’s tourist resorts, you will find pristine, empty beaches all for yourself to enjoy. My good friend was living in Sousse at the time and I loved bringing Milo to visit and play at the beach. We would drive maybe 20 min outside the city along the coast and stop when we found a clear spot. Usually completely empty, Milo could run and play freely without me worrying that he was disturbing anyone.
Because my friend allowed Milo to stay at her place it was easy to coordinate a visit to Sousse. I’m not sure how many places near Sousse are actually pet friendly. I doubt any hotels are but you might find luck with an Airbnb. Monastir is another small seaside city close to Sousse. I never got a chance to bring Milo but if you are visiting Sousse a trip to Monastir is a must.
Beaches of Kelibia
Being that my time with Milo in Tunisia was just 2 months, I didn’t get a chance to take him to all the places I would have if we had the time. Another of my favorite beaches is in the coastal town of Kelibia located on the Cap Bon peninsula. The town is small and charming with a historic fort built in the 16th century that overlooks the sea.
With several restaurants along the beach and in town, you have plenty of options to choose from. Kelibia is known for it’s excellent seafood. You can get there by taking one of the minibuses from Tunis. There is a transfer which I unfortunately can’t remember where, but if you explain where you are going to the driver he will help direct you. It would be a beautiful beach to spend the day with your dog. My only advice would be not going during holidays or busy times as it might be uncomfortable with too many people.
Hiking in Ain Darahim
Another one of my favorite spots in Tunisia is Ain Darahim. Situated just west of Tunis close to the border with Algeria, it’s nestled right in the Mountains. With stunning views and awesome hikes it would be such a great spot to bring your dog. Again, I would advise renting a car if you want to go with your dog.
If traveling on your own you can get there by taking one of the minibuses from Tunis to the town of Tabarka and from there is a bus that goes directly to Ain Darahim. Considering that Tabaraka is a little more touristy, you can easily find hostels and affordable hotels. I would always stay in Tabarka and then visit Ain Darahim for the day by taking the bus since it’s only a 35-40 min drive. Immersed in nature with few people around, I would have loved to bring Milo to this mountain town for some scenic hiking.
Tunisia is filled with beautiful beaches, desserts, mountains and natural oases. I only touched on some of the northern parts of the country, but central and southern Tunisia are quite spectacular as well. If there had been more time, ideally I would have loved to take Milo south to the Sahara, to Tozeur, Douz and Tataouine. It’s such a beautiful country that is well worth a visit. If you have your own transportation and plan accordingly, you can have some awesome adventures with your dog too.
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