KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
It’s always thrilling to have encounters with South African wildlife. While initially exhilarating, things can get stressful when you add a dog to the mix. We try our best to minimize the chances of an animal encounter since we look out for the safety of wildlife and our dog. But the beauty of nature that makes it so wild is what makes it unpredictable.
South Africa has been quite the animal experience. I feel like I have encountered more wildlife this past year while out with the dog than I have in my 31 years of life combined. While African wildlife is beautiful and exciting, it can also be slightly terrifying. I thought I would share some of our experiences with the unique wildlife living in this country.
KwaZulu-Natal
We live in the province of KwaZulu-Natal on the south-eastern side of South Africa. With coastline, mountain ranges and world renown game reserves it’s a beautifully diverse landscape. As you can imagine, this diversity allows for a variety of plant and animal life to grow and thrive.
Our home is located on a farm in a dairy farming area where Brett grew up. We live at the top of a hill where on a clear day you can easily see the Drakensberg mountains. In this area we call the KZN Midlands and a good five hours from the large game reserves, I expected most of my animal viewing to consist of cows and other livestock. I was surprised to learn that in the Midlands there are some exciting creatures meandering about.
Caracal
If you had asked me to write a list of animals I never thought I would see in my lifetime, the Caracal would’ve definitely be on there. Usually nocturnal and very elusive, they are not easily seen. Weighing up to 40 pounds, they can be found in the Middle East, Central Asia, India and in Africa below the Sahara.
I feel so lucky to have seen this beautiful animal. The first time was when we were driving through the Midlands and spotted one on the side of the road, I thought it was a dog at first but those ears are not easily mistaken. The second time was walking through a forestry trail at Karkloof Falls with Milo. Brett saw one run across the trail and luckily Milo was close enough and distracted by something else that we were able to leash him before he became aware. Once we got close to where it crossed Milo was desperate to run up the path after it’s scent, an encounter he would have most likely regretted.
Warthog
Also spotted along the forestry trails at Karkloof Falls, which to me seemed like an odd place for warthogs to be. They normally live in savannah and grasslands, so the forest plantations at Karkloof are not their ideal habitat but Brett suspects they escaped from a nearby game reserve.
Luckily we were in the car as a small family ran across the trail in front of us. Milo goes crazy for pigs and basically had his face pushed up against the window, desperate to jump out and chase after them. I love warthogs because their tails stick up when they run which always makes me giggle.
Secretary Bird
Probably one of the coolest birds I have ever had the privilege of seeing. Native to Africa, they are commonly found in open grasslands much like the farming area we live in. Easily recognizable by those long legs, they are a large bird that can grow up to 4 feet in height. They hunt on land for small mammals, lizards and snakes, killing their prey by stomping on them.
I have seen them on the farm a handful of times when I’m walking Milo. Usually far off in the distance, Milo is often distracted and doesn’t notice them until they take flight which is a spectacular sight. We both freeze in our tracks and watch this large bird disappear over the hills, both of us mesmerized.
Reedbuck and Bushbuck
Both are a species of Antelope and are quite abundant in our area. I would say on average 7 out of 10 times I walk with Milo we see one. Reedbucks are larger and can weigh over 130 pounds. They prefer grasslands and will usually pop out of a donga on the farm as we are walking and run off.
We encounter Bushbuck when we walk in the forestry plantations near our home. While to me they look rather similar to the Reedbuck, they are smaller and usually darker in color. If Milo is on leash he will freeze and be silent until they run out of sight. If he is off leash it’s a disaster and he will chase them until they disappear.
I obviously don’t want or encourage him to chase the wildlife and it’s a habit we are working hard to break. I always try to leash him when I spot a buck, but sometimes it’s just too quick and he takes off before I even realize whats going on. He responds better to Brett’s voice so he tends to have more success preventing a chase.
Vervet Monkey
The Vervet Monkey, also known as Milo’s enemy, is a small monkey that inhabits eastern and southern Africa. They can weigh anywhere between 9 and 17 pounds, live in groups and will tease and taunt Milo if they get the chance. In Uganda they were everywhere and Milo was constantly trying to chase them out of our yard. They would sit above him in the trees, teasing him while jumping from branch to branch.
They are quite adaptable and have been found living in savannah’s, woodlands, forests, mountains and even urban environments. They eat fruits, leaves, seeds and crops if they find their way into agricultural areas. We see them often when driving around but because our farm is grazed by cows and the forest nearby is a eucalyptus plantation there is not a lot for them to eat.
We do see a big family that will run across the farm from time to time. Milo will sit at the fence barking, making sure they know he will never forgive them for how he was teased in Uganda.
Monitor Lizard
The Monitor Lizard, or Nile Monitor, is the largest lizard in Africa. Growing up to 7 feet in length, they have long tails and are great swimmers, I have mistaken them for crocodiles before. They are found throughout most of the continent, especially around rivers. We seen them sun bathing on the riverbanks when kayaking on the Umzimkulu River.
While not often seen at home, there are small streams that run through the farm so they are defiantly around. They are carnivorous and will pretty much eat anything, their long and sharp claws make it easy for them to move around different terrain.
Milo had a rumble with one last spring on the farm. We couldn’t see because the grass was long but he caught wind of something and chased after it. As we ran after him we heard this terrible growling noise only for Brett to find Milo with this monitors arms gripped around his neck and mouth clamped down on his ear. Brett grabbed it by the tail and pulled it away, a heavy task as this lizard was close to 4 feet in length. It scampered off unharmed while Milo was left with a bloody ear and bruised ego. Hopefully a lesson learned to leave these large lizards alone.
Southern Ground Hornbill
Another large bird exclusive to Africa, they can grow up to 3 feet in height with a wingspan of close to 5 feet. They hunt insects and small mammals on the ground and tend to nest in tall tree cavities or rock holes in cliff faces. Listed as a vulnerable species, they are considered endangered in South Africa.
We had the privilege of observing a small group foraging on the section of farm in front of our yard. Alerted to their presence by Milo barking at the fence, these odd looking large birds were not to his liking. We sat and watched them move around for a while. They eventually took off and sadly haven’t been back, but it was such a treat to get to see them.
Puff Adder
The most common and widespread snake in Africa, The Puff Adder can be found throughout most of the continent. A member of the viper species, it prefers to inhabit grasslands and savannah. Their coloring and patterns vary with different shades of brown, black, grey, white, yellow, orange and even red, making them experts at camouflage. Growing up to 4 feet in length, they are a wide bodied snake with long fangs containing cytotoxic venom that destroys the cells and tissue.
Sluggish in nature, humans often come across them along walking paths sun bathing. Because they stay quiet when approached and are reluctant to move, it’s often that you are right on top of one before you realize it’s there. We encountered one while walking through the forest plantation by our house. In a moment of poor timing Brett pulls off his sweater inhibiting his view as I am too late to notice that what I thought was a stick was actually a Puff Adder. To my horror Milo manages to find himself right on top of it. As I begin to panic and Brett can now see, the Puffy takes a warning strike at Milo’s head leaving me to run and scream erratically in the opposite direction.
Because Brett is rational and responsible he was able to keep calm and call to Milo in an angry and stern voice. Milo came to him immediately leaving the Puffy to slither off into the forest. The Puff Adder is an impressively large snake I hope to never encounter again.
Giraffe
The largest living terrestrial animal, they can stand anywhere from 14 to 18 feet tall. With several different subspecies within the Giraffe family, the South African Giraffe is what we see here in KwaZulu-Natal. With over 30,000 remaining in the wild, they are not as vulnerable as some of the other subspecies.
With a handful of reserves in this province, you don’t have to travel far to see these tall and majestic creatures. A good friend of ours runs a rafting company and outdoor education camp in the Umkomaas Valley called Nyala Pans River Camp. We have the privilege of being able to visit and paddle along the Umkomaas river with Milo.
The camp is also home to some 30 Giraffe who are experts at blending into the valley. We feel very lucky when they cross the reserve and we can see them. Milo is surprisingly good, we keep him in the car when driving through the areas of the camp where wildlife roam. He will sit still and silent, with an intense look of perplexity on his face as these huge creatures saunter by.
Zebra
Iconically associated with Africa, there seem to be no shortage of Zebra in Kwazulu-Natal. Regarded by some as a nuisance, they make their way into retirement communities chowing the grass and stomping all over the gardens. Zebra have never successfully been domesticated or tamed. They have an unpredictable nature, are impulsive and easily panic when under stress.
Having not grown up here, I never get tired of seeing them. Driving around you see them grazing in local reserves and nature communities. Brett’s family have a home in a private nature reserve where Zebra are present and roam freely. Again, Milo is very good and when we are visiting and walk past them, he will just stand in silence staring. Seemingly indifferent to humans with their dogs, the Zebra will casually glance at you as you walk past and then continue with their grazing.
Rock Dassie
Also known as the Rock Hyrax, is native to Africa and the Middle East. Weighing up to 8 pounds, they inhabit rocky areas which allow them to escape and hide from predators. An interesting fact about Dassies, they are the African Elephants closest living relative. This is due to the similarities in the structure of the feet and teeth and having a common gene sequence.
We see Rock Dassies all the time when we go to the river or visit Karkloff Falls. Agile little things, Milo is so desperate to catch one. Luckily for them he is not as well suited to jumping up and along steep rock faces, so they manage to scamper away without any problems. They make me laugh as their face gives off the impression that they are permanently grumpy.
Black-Backed Jackal
Inhabiting parts of eastern and southern Africa, the Black-Backed Jackal can live in a diverse range of habitats but prefers wide open areas with little vegetation. Weighing anywhere between 13-29 pounds, they closely resemble a fox or coyote. Mostly nocturnal, they will eat pretty much anything, from insects to amphibians, reptiles and mammals.
An incredibly vocal creature, we hear them almost every night howling, yelping, cackling and whining. Oddly enough as loud as they are Milo has never once barked at them. This is especially surprising when he sleeps outside and you can hear that they are close by. We joke it’s because he secretly wishes they would adopt him into their pack, allowing him to run free into the night living the life he feels he deserves.
Milo unfortunately sniffed one out on a walk recently. We were hiking up one of the steeper hills on the farm. Rocky and recently burned, I figured the chances of an animal encounter would be minimal. Of course I was wrong and in the blink of an eye I see a Jackal dash out from behind a rock with Milo right behind it. Ignoring my calls he chased it into the forest. I don’t think they fought since I couldn’t hear any growling and he returned unscathed. Seeming quite happy, perhaps they actually made friends.
Helmeted Guineafowl
Native to Africa, the Helmeted Guineafowl can be found throughout most of sub-Saharan Africa. A ground feeding bird, they prefer grasslands and semi desserts but have also been seen in forests.
Weighing anywhere from 2 to 4 pounds, the live in groups and nest on the ground. While we don’t see them near our house, they are quite commonly seen in the areas we go hiking and paddling. Lucky for me Milo has always been on leash when they scamper across the trail, he is so desperate to chase them. I personally love seeing this bird with it’s blue head and spotted plumage. I think of them as South Africa’s wild turkey, except far more beautiful to look at.
Rinkhals
To date my most frightening animal encounter, the Rinkhals is found only in South Africa and Eastern Zimbabwe. Brett finds it quite a fascinating snake, while it is a venomous elapid and resembles a cobra displaying a hood, it is not actually part of the cobra genus and has keeled scales like a viper. They have a mixture of neurotoxic and cytotoxic venom which affects the nervous system as well as tissue and cells. Growing up to 5 feet in length, they can also spit their venom making this a snake you don’t want to mess with.
To my dismay I encountered a Rinkhals on the farm when I was alone with Milo. Our house is located at the top of a hill and we had embarked on a long walk to the bottom. The grass was long and Milo was walking in front of me. I hear quick movement in the grass only to look up and see a Rinkhlas with it’s hood flared at eye level with Milo. In a moment of extreme panic I call Milo but he ignores my screams and instead does a curiosity dance around this snake as it’s lunging at him. My frantic screaming eventually broke his concentration and he veered to the side, but tried to go after it again. The high pitched tone of my final scream was enough to stop him in his tracks and I was able to leash him allowing the snake to slither away.
By miracle neither Milo or the snake were injured. A Rinkhals standing with it’s hood on display is quite an impressive sight. Having never seen a cobra-type snake before I imagine Milo was rather confused as to what this creature was doing. Thankfully curiosity didn’t get the best of him this time, but it almost gave me a heart attack.
Have questions about tourism our wildlife in KwaZulu-Natal? Feel free to send me a message!
